$168.17
Description
SEVERE DUTY PERFORMANCE REPLACEMENT CLUTCH PACK FOR 1056-0002 COMP MASTER CLUTCH AND RIVERA PRO CLUTCH.
MADE IN THE U.S.A.
Includes:
1054-0006 FRICTION (7)
2060-0006 STEEL .047″ (7)
1060-0003 STEEL .120″ (1)
AVAILABLE 9/3/18
Additional information
Weight | 5.1 lbs |
---|---|
Dimensions | 7 × 7 × 1.5 in |
Hello, i am looking for s couple Rivera primo replacement clutch kits and wanted to know how to order fron your company?
You can go onto our website shopping cart, email us or call direct.
Hi, can you please confirm that the clutch works in a dry setup? After decades (!) of use, I now have to replace the plates in my ancient Phase III drive and clutch.
OUR CLUTCH PLATES WORK IN A WET OF DRY APPLICATION.
Our friction material works in either a wet or dry application.
Hi, it’s me again. I have a question about your replacement clutch pack, 1048-0041, which I have bought and attempted to install without success. While my query is – I’m sure – unorthodox, I still hope you can point me in the right direction of a workable solution.
Here’s the tricky part: I have a 45-year old Phase III belt drive and clutch (with only one belt replacement since new!) and wanted to replace the clutch plates. Easy-peasy, I thought, as although Phase III is long gone, your plates are a perfect replacement match. Well, not quite, as your drive plates are steel and thinner than my original aluminium ones. Not a problem, I thought, and ordered a couple more drive and friction plates to bring the thickness up to what my clutch housing requires.
Before installing the new plates I washed them thoroughly with brakleen to remove any residue. Yet the clutch rotates freely, with barely any friction. I know that your clutch uses a diaphragm spring, whereas mine has six individual springs. But these springs are quite hard, and if not adjusted with a bit of slack will make the clutch operation very stiff. Yet, even with maximum tension, the clutch rotates freely while kicking – not even close to engaging the engine.
What have I missed? Not enough brakleen? How about gentle ‘polishing’ of the friction plates with high-grade sanding paper (something that I’ve been doing for years, to remove the inevitable glazing)? Or do your clutch plates require much stiffer springs? Any suggestions are very much appreciated!
Hi. The Phase III belt drive used a proprietary clutch pack for the clutch which was based on the OE clutch plates. Our clutch plates are also meant to work within the OE clutch basket although we use a diaphragm spring instead of coil springs. However, all clutches operate on the same basic principles, so you should be able to replace the plates in the phase 3 clutch as long as you get the clutch pack height correct. So, if you take all the original steel drive plates and friction plates and measure them together that is the pack height you will need for the replacement clutch. Any further help, you will need to call us as I do not like to type.
That’s exactly what I’ve done – I ordered two more friction and drive plates. In the end, only one of each was enough to bring the thickness back to the original pack. But still no luck. The clutch spins with negligible resistance. According to the installation instructions, I was supposed to clean everything with brake cleaner, which I have done. But do I need to soak the clutch plates for a prolonged time? There’s still a yellowish tinge on the friction plates, both the steel and the friction material.
Yes, it would be easier and faster to call you, to resolve this. Just advise me of the number (when calling outside the States) and department/person to ask for.
Cheers!
OUR PHONE NUMBER IS 562-321-1989. YOU WILL TALK TO BEN.